A few weeks ago (6/23-6/26) was my friend Scott’s bachelor party, and he really pulled out all the stops. We flew to Boston Thursday evening and stayed with his brother for the night. Scott’s brother Dave lives with his wife Mira and their new son Ralph in a very nice house in Brookline, Mass.
Lesson #1: I remembered that you can’t exactly clunk around the house making all the noise you want at 11pm when there’s a baby sleeping. That’s somewhat foreign to me, as our apartment rarely gets quiet before midnight, and I can make all the noise I want. I bet whenever Heather and I have kids, I’ll always be waking them up on accident.
Let me back up. Thursday night, I flew up to Logan Airport in a seat next to a drunk woman who twice asked me if “the bartender” had come by yet, in between her short naps. My plane got in ~10:30pm, and of course the bags took another 30 minutes to arrive. I’ve been hesitant to carry my luggage on the plane with me for a while now, because of how annoying all of the people are who bring gigantic bags on the plane and then whine when there isn’t any more room to stuff them in the overhead bin. I always roll my eyes and think “Yeah, too bad there’s not a gigantic compartment somewhere on this plane where we could all put our luggage. That’d be swell.”
Lesson #2: Don’t expect to get in a cab in Boston from the airport and use your cell phone any time in the proceeding 20 minutes. I mean, don’t get me wrong, the
system of tunnels is amazing, but I’m not used to being in the middle of a big city, on a major interstate, and being completely unable to get a cell signal.
Scott and I had some great sushi in Brookline and had a few beers before we went to sleep. Er, after we attempted to get into the wrong house for 5 minutes. No, we didn’t drink that much.
In the morning, we took two cabs over to the harbor and boarded the boat.
The Double Down, docked expertly at the Harborside Inn (inn not pictured)
Present were Scott, Andrew (his new brother-in-law), Rich (his new father-in-law), Ralph (his dad), Dave (his brother), and Ray (the captain) and his crew.
Lesson #3: Yachts are nice. This particular model sleeps eight comfortably with 4 bedrooms and 3 full baths, not including the crew’s quarters. The dining and living areas are beautiful, as well as the gorgeous entertainment center, stocked bar, and spacious deck.
We sat on the boat a while and had some late-morning beers (Dont look at me like that; it was a bachelor party!) before getting on our way. The plan was to sail from Boston to Newport, apparently a 6-hour voyage. We encountered some rough seas on the way, however, and after about an hour of trying to get through some 10-foot waves, the decision was made to instead dock at Martha’s Vineyard and spend the weekend in Edgartown.
Lesson #4: Ten foot waves make for a very interesting trip. For the first 20 minutes or so, it’s kind of fun; holding on for dear life as the floor and ceiling of the boat play a fast-paced version of Pong with everone onboard. But like Pong, after the novelty wears off, it’s not fun anymore and it’s easy to lose it if you don’t pay attention.
We docked in Edgartown at the Harborside Inn, a beautiful spot that Ralph and Rich seemed to enjoy. (They stayed at the inn and the rest of us slept on the boat.) As it turns out, Edgartown was one of the principal filming locations for the thrillingly accurate documentary Jaws. I was somewhat surprised to find that the film greatly exaggerated the dangers of the surrounding waters, as only 3 of the 8 people on our boat were eaten by sharks, a much smaller body count than I’d expected. I helped moor the boat and felt like a genuine sailor for about 18 seconds, and then we quickly made for the nearest gift shop, as several of the men were cold. Yes, in the middle of the late-June heat, the evenings are still pleasantly cool on Martha’s Vineyard. So it was $30 long-sleeve t-shirts for all! (Except yours truly, who somehow managed to pack smart for once in his life). The town is also notable for its central role in the Ted Kennedy scandal, though they don’t have a museum or anything, as far as I could tell.
Our next stop was the Seafood Shanty, a decent joint with a tremendous panoramic view of the harbor, including the quaint lighthouse on one end and $10 million houses in the hills on the other.
After a few rounds at the Shanty, we made it back to the yacht for one of many fantastic meals prepared by Jason, the chef on board the Double Down. Jason is an absolutely tremendous chef, and made some of the best meals I’ve had in a long time. Even more incredible is the fact that he prepared huge meals for 8 in such a small kitchen. I guess he’s got months of practice, but I could have the entire kitchen and staff of a hotel and not create the feasts that he created with two people in a tiny kitchen on a moving vessel! Breakfast, lunch, and dinner were all ready when we were, and made the weekend that much better.
After steaks and red wine, we set out on the town to find out what kind of trouble we could get into in this small town.
Edgartown is one of only two towns on Martha’s Vineyard that even allows alcohol sales, and even so, last call is a far-too-early 12:30am. The bars in town are predictable, touristy places with the usual mix of local kids, vacationing partiers, and draft beer in plastic cups. Like everything else on the island, drinks are rather expensive, and I was glad the Family of the Groom was sponsoring the weekend.
At precisely 12:30, we strolled out of whatever bar we were at and marvelled at the number of cabs and people waiting for cabs. I guess the people in the dry towns have to go somewhere…
More drinks back at the boat kept us in bed far past the 7:00 wakeup call for the brave souls who decided to get up and go fishing in the smaller fishing boat that accompanied us on the trip. The guys who went fishing returned in time to have breakfast with us at 10:30, and regaled the nonplussed sleepyheads with tales of seasickness and catching absolutely nothing, the latter of which is apparently “the fun part” of fishing. Or so I’m told.
Most of the day was spent relaxing on the boat, venturing into town, and eating Milano cookies straight from the bag. We took a long walk in the afternoon out to the aforelinked lighthouse and back, spotting a wedding in progress on the way. I don’t want to even imagine what a wedding on the Vineyard would cost, but it was certainly beautiful.
Saturday night brought the best meal of the trip, a spread of lamb, couscous with raisins, and squash. We enjoyed the feast, celebrated my birthday (which was Saturday), and had champagne and cigars on the stern of the yacht. We again ventured into town for more imbibing, and found that every night at the bars of Edgartown is exactly the same. We saw the same people, the same situations, and everything was much the same. This is perhaps attributable to the fact that there are only 3-4 bars with any crowd in town. Still, we had a good time, and managed to continue to celebrate Scott’s upcoming marriage and my 24th birthday, all at once.
We sailed back to Boston on Sunday and had a delicious dinner at Kingfish Hall, an impressive seafood restaurant. The wedding is this weekend, and Heather and I are flying up to New York tomorrow for the celebration.